Cosmetics and perfumes (part-1)

INTRODUCTION 
many types of raw materials can be used in the formulation of cosmetics. The choice of the raw materials involves the consideration of the following factors,viz.aesthetic value, colour ,availability, skin compatibility, environmental compatibility, smell acceptability ,stability and cost . The stability refers to Physical,chemical and microbial stability. Cosmetic raw materials are mixtures of wide variety of individual components.
 
  Some cosmetics and perfumes are given below:--

 1. FACE POWDER:-

  • The  function of the face powder is to mask any minor defect on the skin and supress oily patches so that the face appears to be smooth, beautiful and attractive. the modern face powder is a mechanical mixture of several constitutents each of which confers its own properties to the final blend. 
  • The face powder should possess desired covering powder, adhesion property, slip,absorbing power, brightness and pleasing odour.
  • good covering power is an  important property of a face powder to conceal scar marks, other minor defects,bigger pores and oily nature of the skin.
  • Raw Materials and  zinc oxide are frequently used to increase the covering power of face powder. Though zinc oxide processes less  covering power than Titanium dioxide, it has a soothing effect on skin.
  • raw materials is used in the treatment of skin irritation and it prevent sunburn To a great extent. Other materials used as covering agents are kaolin and magnesium oxide.
  • After application, the face powder should stick to the skin by the property of adhesion. This is given by talc and stearates of zinc and magnesium.
  • In addition, these compounds impart slip that is the property of easy spreading with a smooth slippery feeling.
  • Talc is the major component of face powder containing up to 70% by weight and the amount of stearates veries between 3 and 10 percent. Talc should be very finely powdered and free from grits,mica and other impurities. 
  • The materials used as absorbents are rice starch,kaolin(Pharmaceutical grade or colloidal,max. 30%), magnesium carbonate (max.5%) precipitated calcium carbonate (max.15%) and organic polymers (special preparations).
  • Major function of face powder is to absorb perspiration and sebum (greasy secretion)and to cover the shiny nose, forehead and cheek. Sum of these materials like calcium carbonate (precipitated) and rice starch are said to give required bloom,I.e.,glow or brightness.
     
2. NAIL POLISH:-
  • Nail polishes available in different shades of colour not only as the object of beautification but also as a nail care product.
  • The major component of nail polish is nitrocellulose which forms a thin film on the nail after evaporation of the solvent.
  • The Lustre is given by the addition of some resins like polymethacrylates and toulene sulphonamide-formaldehyde resins.
  • Camphor and dibutyl phthalate find frequent use as plasticizer. Plasticizer makes the film soft.
  • Highly volatile organic solvent mixtures are used so that the nail polish dries up quickly after application and is fixed on the nail firmly.
  • The solvent may consist of the mixture of ethyl alcohol, ethyl acetate, butyl acetate and toulene.
  • Different inorganic and organic pigments are employed as colouring agents . Some of these are iron oxide, Titanium dioxide, Cobalt blue, Chrome green etc.
  • Pearlescent nail polish contains mica,bismuth oxychloride or pearl essence.
    3. CREAM:-

            
  • the creams are emulsions of water- based and oil- based phases.
  • These are two phase systems consisting of Two incompletely miscible liquids in which the minor phase is dispersed as fine globules in the major phase which is continuous in nature.
  • Creams may be prepared as oil-in-water (o/w)or water-in-oil(w/o) emulsions.o/w emulsions produce a cooling effect on the skin due to water evaporation.
  • A simple formula of a cold cream may consist of beeswax 12.1 %, spermaceti (white wax from whale)12.6%, sweet almond oil 55.4%,borax 0.5% and water 19.4%. however most of the almond oil can be replaced by Mineral oil.The emulsifier is sodium cerotate formed by the reaction between borax and beeswax.
  • On the other hands vanishing creams are generally emulsions of stearic acid in a non alkaline medium. The ingredients are water 65-75%,stearic acid 15-20%, glycerol 8-12%, potassium hydroxide 0.5-1.5% and small amounts of preservative and perfume. About 20% of the stearic acid used is Saponified and the rest 80% remains as free acid.
  • Another important ingredient is emulsifier which stabilises the emulsion. Important emulsifier are glyceryl monostearate, sorbitol,amine soaps,pyridinium compounds etc.
     4. TALCUM POWDER:-
  •   Talcum powder is also called body powder. It consist of a mixture of fine solid particles for only external application to the skin.
  • Application of talcum powder produces a drying and cooling effect.
  • The drying and cooling effect are produced by starch and stearates of zinc and magnesium.
  • Starch possesses excellent moisture absorption properties and gives smoothness to the skin.
  • However, in  case of too much perspiration and also in humid atmosphere, the starch forms a sticky paste which is undesirable. So, depending on the conditions of use of the Powder, the starch content will vary in the formulation.
  • Stearates also give adhesion of the Powder To the skin. Addition of petroleum jelly and paraffin oil improves adhesion property.
  • The slippery character of the Powder is due to talc, hydrated magnesium silicate having the formula 3mgo.4sio2.h2o. it gives easy spreading, smooth feeling on the skin and also good adhesion.
  • Talc has low moisture absorption capacity. It should be free from grit, carbonate and water soluble iron compounds.
  • Ultra fine pure silica to the extent of 30% can be used in talcum powder to prevent caking in moist condition.
5. Lipstick:-
  • Specially in winter and in dry season the lip becomes dry and develops small cracks.
  • In extreme cases small pieces of skin come out of the lip . So, lip requires some protection by the application of greasy material. Necessary protection is given by lipstick as it contains oily and waxy material.
  • In addition, the lipstick has a decorative aspect to make it matching with the costume as well as attractive.
  • The shape of the lipstick should be such that it can be applied easily by light pressure producing a thin film of fatty material.
  • The film should have good adherence , should be nonsticky and should give a smooth appearance.
  • The colour should be stable and not injurious to skin.
  • The lipstick should be stable in climatic temperature changes and should not sweat in storage.
The base material for making lipstick consist of the following oily and waxy substances.
  1.  Castor oil and Mineral oil      : liquid.
  2. Petroleum jelly, Lanolin etc   : Semi solid.
  3. Beeswax, ceresin etc              : solid.
  4. carnauba wax                           : Higher Higher melting solid. 
  •  Carnauba wax (m.p.83°-86°c) is a very hard natural wax having high melting point.it maintains the structure and shape of the lipstick and gives necessary strength to it.
  • Semisolid and solid paraffin waxes are important constitutents of high quality lipstick.they mix with the oil and produces a soft material which flows under low pressure giving uniform adherence.
  • The soft material remains impregnated into the solid structure of Carnauba wax.
  • The quality of a lipstick depends on its appearance,colour ,its shade,ability to impart uniform colouration,fragrance and adherence capability.

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